The hill country line was built by the British to move tea, and it climbs from Kandy at 500 metres to over 1,800 before dropping into Ella. It is regularly called one of the great rail journeys in the world, and for once the description holds up.
How long it actually takes
Kandy to Ella is roughly six and a half to seven hours, and Sri Lankan trains do not run to the minute. Budget the whole day.
If that sounds like a lot, it is, and you have options.
The stretch that matters
The famous scenery is the second half. From Nanu Oya (the station for Nuwara Eliya) onwards, the track cuts along the contour of the hills through unbroken tea estates, in and out of tunnels, across viaducts.
Doing Nanu Oya to Ella takes about three and a half hours and gives you almost all of the good bit. For most itineraries this is the smarter choice: drive the first leg, take the train for the part worth taking it for.
Which class to book
- First class observation car — reserved, air conditioned, rear-facing windows. Comfortable, but the windows do not open and that matters more than you would think.
- Second class reserved — the sweet spot. Windows open, doors open, fans overhead. This is where the photographs come from.
- Third class unreserved — cheapest, no guarantee of a seat, often the most fun. Fine if you board at an originating station.
Most people who have done it in all three recommend second class reserved.
Which side to sit on
Travelling from Kandy towards Ella, the better views are generally on the right-hand side. It is not absolute — the line curves constantly — but if you have a choice, take the right.
Honestly, most people spend the journey standing in an open doorway anyway.
Booking
Reserved seats open around 30 days in advance and the popular trains sell out within days in high season. If your dates are fixed, book as early as you can.
If reserved seats are gone, unreserved third class is always available. You may stand for part of it. People do it happily.
What to bring
- Water and something to eat, though vendors work the aisles at every stop
- A warm layer for the highest section, which is genuinely cold with the windows open
- Cash in small notes
Doing it with luggage
You do not want to wrestle suitcases through a crowded carriage. The usual arrangement, and the one we run: your driver takes the vehicle and your bags by road and meets you at the destination station. You travel with a day bag and nothing else.
Is it worth it?
Yes, with one caveat. If you are travelling with small children, or you are on a tight schedule, or someone in your party struggles with heat and crowds, the drive through the same hills is scenic in its own right and takes half the time.
For everyone else, this is the single most memorable few hours of a Sri Lanka trip. Take the train.
